More new directional brands for men have just been presented at Tranoi in Paris (December’11)
Klasica and Mando from Japan, the Bulgarian brand Demobaza, London-based Harris Wharf and Delusion from from Manchester.
“Our brand is not fast fashion; it’s a collection of individually crafted items that go through vigorous development. Delusion has a true passion for quality products and always striving for perfection in their garments,“ says Delusions Creative Director, Ryan Heard. Destruction, disintegration and distortion of textiles and industrial elements, are the base of the brand’s intuitive, yet edgy take on modern menswear clothing and accessories. “The Autumn/Winter 12/13 collection ‘Enigma’ takes aspects from ancient Japanese Samurai warrior. The outcome is a presentation of strong lines infused with leathers, denim, wool and a series of jerseys and knitwear. Each collection contains a unique range of luxury basics, with an overlay of more intricate pieces,“ explains Heard. The Key to this season is a tough exterior incorporated with heavily battered/washed leather and suede; tailored wool outerwear mixed with; fine weight jerseys juxtaposed with structured and hand crafted knitted garments. Using a dark urban palette with a highlight of blue nuit runs throughout the collection with complex manual processes and washes developing a rugged, rough texture to balance the theme.
Tokyo-based designer Mando Takasu launched his namesake men’s collection six years ago, offering modern classic styling with touches of vintage retro. The former director of the original ALPHA CUBIC brand—an apparel company that had tremendous influence on Japanese fashion from the1970s to the 1990s through importing, distributing and entering into brand license agreements with Yves Saint Laurent and Renoma—where he stayed for 14 years, tells us: “I was especially influenced by Yves Saint Laurent and decided to enter the fashion world because of him. In 1989, the men’s brand COHIBA was started and I was its top manager and chief designer. During that time I produced costumes for stage, movies, television dramas, and so on. In 1997 then, I started my own brand, mando, and produced ladies’ clothing.” It was in 2003 that he added menswear to the offer. About his brand he says: “I seek to express the air of the times without being trapped in preconceptions about men’s or womenswear or being influenced by trends. The expression is casual, but the materials are premium, techniques are at the highest level, and sometimes elements of haute couture are brought in. The basic idea is classic but it is based on the image of men riding the crest of the wave of these times. The 2012 Autumn/Winter image is made up of classic style and materials blended with the spirit of ethnicity. We have sprinkled on various touches to make each item distinct, such as adding handicraft-type techniques, applying garment dyeing or garment washing for the “vintage look.”"
Established in 2008 this brand has generated the concept of deconstructive uniforms. It is the combination between Bulgarian post-socialist spirit and extraordinary futuristic dreams, along with intentional unwariness to details, that form the basis of Demobaza’s philosophy. Demo and Tono, the founders and chief designers of the brand have this to say about their Fall/Winter 2012/13 vision: “Our reLOVEution collection is inspired by the power of the mind and the notion that no one can control real love. It represents the new human being that will pass over into a new spiritual world—the time when we will overcome the artificial material world with its fake values. Our man is a spiritual warrior, a man who walks over the dark past of the Old World or what is left of it, the man who will transport humanity into а new dimension where happiness is the natural state of the soul. A time when all the people will wake up for their bright new future. We are using shiny materials, black rubberized denim and different combinations of wool and other materials in order to achieve the trashy deconstructed shape of the clothes in this collection.”
Not so modern, not so vintage. not so basic.
it’s all about natural materials, crafted by hand.
embodying historical style from all around the world.
“Almost all clothing will contain unique texture for a different touch. Rough, hard and mellow. Every material keeps its innocence, to not become too sophisticated,” says designer Kohei Kawamura adding: “Our next season’s title will be “existence,” because everything has a reason for existing…” This Japanese brand first joined Tranoï for the last women’s show, and now we look forward to seeing its menswear creations.
Everything started in 1928 when the designer’s great grandparents started their
ladies gloves factory in Turin, Italy. Now, 80 years later, the family business is at the fourth generation with Giulia who, after studying fashion design in Milan and London, developed her inspiration merging the British sense of style and the Italian craftsmanship inherited by her family business. In 2008 Giulia was interning in the Alexander McQueen studio and so lived in Harris Wharf (Islington, Angel).
There she decided to create her own collection inspired by London’s unconventional
atmosphere. In 2009 followed the opening of “Workshop”, her shop in 19 Camden Passage, in the historic quirky antiques market. “The inspiration of my collections is to borrow the most classical pieces of the wardrobe and transform them into unlined jersey garments. Italian craftsmanship is mixed with the English sense of style that I absorbed while living in London. I am from Torino, so I like the idea of designing very essential lines,” explains Giulia whose collection is almost entirely made in the family factory in Italy with a small production made in England. A fundamental element of the collection is the choice of fabric, rigorously high quality and with properties that allows an unstructured and unlined construction. The styles are based on sharp and essential cuts, widely recurring to raw edge. Favorite styles are: the coats and mantles in felted wool, the bicolor dresses and the super classic trench coat, totally reinterpreted.